Replacing Door seal
All air-controlled appliances have a method of reducing random leaks into the firebox so that air only enters the stove through the air control. Virtually all modern wood –burning stoves use a fire rope around the doors to seal them. Some ash pan doors also have seals.
Gasket material has evolved over the years from asbestos rope to fiberglass ropes in various sizes and densities. The usual gaskets are 3/8″ to 1″ thick. If in doubt about what size and density to use, remove the door and take it to a stov shop to test a variety of gaskets in the groove. The right gasket may be cut to length from a large reel or packaged by the manufacturer in a kit for your stove. Cement to hold the gasket in place is often included in kits.
You can purchase gasket cement in a small tube or tub. If you can’t find gasket cement don’t despair. You can use high temperature silicone sealant in a caulking tube. Some have said that silicone hardens the gasket sooner than stove cement, but that’s not a clear consensus, so don’t be afraid to try it.
To install the gasket, remove the door and place it on cardboard or cloth to prevent scratching of the finish. Pull out the existing gasket; on some stoves you’ll have to disassemble the door to get the gasket out. Clean the gasket groove with an old screwdriver to remove any lumps of old cement. Clean the groove thoroughly with a wire brush and/or course steel wool to produce a clean surface for the cement to stick to.
Using the cement or silicone, apply a narrow (usually 1/4″ to 1/2″ wide, depending on gasket size) bead along the entire groove. Lay the gasket in the groove without stretching or bunching it, starting on a long straight part of the groove. Cut the gasket slightly long so that the ends can be tucked into each other forming a good seal. Press the gasket into the cement.
Mount the door and test the seal. Slamming the door lightly, you should hear the muffled sound of the gasket, not metal, hitting the stove body.